Taking a Hike

Last week in St. John, I took a break from the beach to hike the lovely Reef Bay Trail, one of the most popular in the USVI National Park. It's 2.5 miles downhill (works for me!), and at the end there's beautiful deserted bay and beaches. Encyclopediac rangers lead the hikes, pointing out flora and fauna as you go; as you descend through the moist subtropical forest, watch out for some of the wildlife I've pictured here. That spider's the size of a kitten. Near the end of the trail, you'll encounter the ruins of the Reef Bay sugar mill, now home to a huge population of hermit crabs and bats. I unfortunately didn't photograph the ruins because I desperately needed to use the "Lady Bird Johnson" facilities. Seems the former first lady hiked the Reef Bay Trail herself in the early 1960s, and when she enquired about a restroom, the ranger indicated that it was all around her with a broad sweep of his hand. Upon her return to the mainland, Lady Bird generously donated the money for the outhouse that now bears her name. At the end of the trail is the big payoff: a stretch of deserted beach and nearly undisturbed green hillsides hug a quiet blue bay. If you're interested in participating in the hike on your visit to St. John, the park service runs guided tours on Mondays and Thursdays, but they fill up fast.

Go to www.nps.gov/viis and reserve a spot far in advance. Happy hiking!

Everything's Going to be Okay

Hi all, blogging from the lush, verdant isle of St. John, USVI, where part of the reason it's so green right now is the rain that's been falling intermittently for the last week. It's also led to an affliction I like to call Mosquito Pincushionitis, whereby my legs look like a game of connect-the- dots, but never mind: Rain or shine, it's hands down one of my favorite destinations, for the beaches (sublime), the people (incredibly welcoming), the scenery (see for yourself), the food (it's detox for a week when I get home) and the great resorts like Caneel Bay, where I had the good fortune to stay for three nights earlier this week, in Cottage Seven no less, renowned for being the one occupied by Brangelina and brood on their visit to the island in 2007. Not that I read any of the celebrity rags or care about stuff like this (ahem) but let's just say I was tickled (haha) to find myself the occupant of the room I came to find out was the massage room for the cellulite-free couple.

Caneel's one of those places the rich and famous can go to hide. With 166 rooms spread over 170 acres, the place can be full and still feel deliciously empty. Luckily the paparazzi left me alone, and I was free to wander the grounds, as well as stuff myself silly, both literally and figuratively on everything the resort has to offer: I ate, I snorkeled, I kayaked, I ate, I lazed on the beaches, I ate - you get the idea. In short, it was a great three days; from the moment we boarded the Lady Caneel ferry in St. Thomas until the moment we checked out. Even if it wasn't before, at Caneel Bay, everything is, in fact, okay.