Longtime CT+L readers will remember my November 2007 feature on British dive instructor and artist Jason de Caires Taylor, whose compelling concrete figures were submerged in the water off Grenada's west coast to form an underwater sculpture "garden" for divers and snorkelers.
Late last year, Taylor completed the first four pieces for his newest submarine installation, this time located off the coast of Cancun. Over time, the ph-neutral concrete pieces should attract algae and marine life – and snorkelers and divers in their wake – easing environmental pressure on the ecosystem and coral reef, which has been compromised by hurricanes and heavy human traffic.
The figures are the first attractions in what Taylor plans to be the largest underwater art museum in the world, with more than 400 life-sized figures for visitors' gawking pleasure. For more information about Taylor's projects or to buy limited-edition prints of his haunting work, just click here.
You know how sometimes you dream about going somewhere and then when you finally visit it doesn’t look half as beautiful as it did in all the photos? Tulum is definitely not one of those places.
As I found out much to my delight on my maiden journey there last week, photos you’ve seen of the seemingly endless stretches of bone-white sand and post-card perfect turquoise waters hardly do it justice. Tulum is even more enchanting in the flesh, and nowhere is this more evident than at the Mayan ruins in the off-the-grid Mexican oasis.
It was a blustery and rainy day when staff photographer Zach and I joined the throng of day-trippers traipsing the dirt road towards the centuries-old site, but when we finally reached the ruins’ famous cliffside Castillo it was every bit as stunning as it appears in photos, even in less-than-perfect weather. The ruins themselves are totally awe-inspiring (beats me how they built those complex structures entirely by hand) and as for the beach … well, put it this way: once I caught sight of it, I charged down the wooden staircase and plunged straight into the surf, even though I didn’t have a towel or change of clothes.
Despite my amateur photo-taking skills, I think you can appreciate the raw beauty of the scene. Trust me; as I sit here in the throes of yet another sticky South Florida summer, I’m seriously contemplating booking the next flight back.
Torrential rain scuttled my plan to visit Reach Falls this morning (May is rainy season in Jamaica), but the afternoon turned out to be unforgettable.
After an elegant lunch at Norma’s at the Marina (more about that tomorrow) we headed west to the Rio Grande for a rafting trip along one of the island’s largest waterways. Our captain was Tony Pearson, an 18-year veteran who expertly piloted our 30-foot-long-by-3-foot-wide bamboo craft while sharing with us the history of the uniquely Jamaican attraction.
As we glided along, Tony explained how back in the 1950s, the swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn (who once lived in Port Antonio) was the first to recognize the tourism potential of the rafts, which were originally used to transport bananas and other produce from inland farms to the port. Today, Tony and 160 of his fellow licensed captains ferry tourists on the scenic ride that begins 30 minutes up the mountainside in the tiny village of Berrydale, and (depending on water conditions) ends 90 minutes to two-and-a-half hours later where the river empties into the Caribbean in St. Margaret’s Bay. To say the experience was magical is an understatement. Floating through the verdant and peaceful valley, accompanied only by the sound of birdsong, is a transcendental experience. Most of the time the river’s surface is flat and mirror-like, but in certain spots rapids rush and gurgle over large river stones, which scrape the bottom of the bamboo craft and make you thankful for the skill of your captain, who, let’s face it, has your life in his capable hands. Mountains soar above you on either side, cloaked in towering stands of giant bamboo and a tangle of wild orchids and colorful heliconia plants. Rafting the Rio Grande offers an opportunity to see Jamaica at its unspoilt best, with cows, goats and the odd fisherman harvesting crayfish your only company.
I could go on and on, but trust me, anything I write will pale in comparison to the singular beauty of the experience. If your travels take you to Jamaica, you simply MUST check it out for yourself. The tour – including transportation to Port Antonio – can be arranged through hotels all over the island. Or if you are already in Porty, call captain Tony directly at 876- 461-4191. Rafting costs $72 per two-person raft, plus approximately $17 for the taxi from St. Margaret’s Bay up to the starting point at Berrydale.
In the meantime, enjoy this short video of captain Tony explaining the origin of rafting in Jamaica. (Patois translation not included.)
And for more about Port Antonio’s charms, check out Chris Cox’s Great Escape.
